Originally wanting to use a 3D printed frame for this build, but after having calibration and belt wear on the Y axis, I ended up with something a bit different while the replacement parts for the printer are yet to be installed. This attempt to use popsicle sticks for a quad frame is by no means the first, but unlike that example I'm using separate "DIY" quadcopter components (typically found on Eachine QX-series for those who want to just get a complete kit with all the parts). The advantage is you get a fully configurable flight controller that can run Beta/FleanFlight, but the tradeoff is you need an actual transmitter which increases the cost. I'm using the FlySky i6.
Everything is available from Banggood. For Canada I've found that using the registered + insured option gets the shipment faster, and may help alleviate issues as experienced by many. (For other Chinese retailers, the ePacket option is great as well)
Here's a complete list of parts along with their product links. (Prices may fluctuate due to sales etc). Note they are affiliate links which mean while its the same price as if you went on the site normally, purchases generate a very small commission for me. First time trying this feature out...
Motors/props ($11.25 USD): Eachine 820 Motor (4x) + Props kit (2 sets)
I'm guessing they're similar to the ChaoLi motors. They come in CW (red+ blue-) and CCW (white+ black+) wiring. While they might spin when polarity is reversed, from what I understand the brushes may wear out much more quickly so its best to make sure they're hooked up correctly!
If I was to order again, I might try the RacerStar ones, which may be better (or simply better looking with the nice red paint scheme... red means faster, right?? ;))
Flight Controller ($7.05 USD): Eachine Naze32 Brushed Controller
In the racing multicopter community the Naze32 is starting to show its age, and F3/F4/F?? controllers with faster processors are starting to become the standard. While the latter are available for brushed builds, it's not really necessary for a small project like this. However, I've noticed that at least F3 based ones are only a few bucks more, so if I was to make another one, I'd probably go with those. One other option would be to go with a built in receiver, such as this one for FlySky, which would make the wiring and mounting a lot cleaner! The tradeoff of course is you won't be able to use the receiver by itself for another project... Similar options exist for DSM and FrSky
Receiver ($10 USD): DasMikro Ultra Mini
Select "Type B", which has the PPM out and makes wiring super easy. Also supports 8CH with a modded Flysky i6, so you can add extra switches and knobs if you like to additional AUX channels!
Rubber Grommets for motor mounting ($1.60 USD): 20 pack
Make sure you select the 8mm version. Outer diameter is about 10mm, not counting the lips that stick out a bit further. 10mm an important dimension as that should be the size of the hole on the arms.
JST/losi Connectors:
Instead of the losi battery connector that came with the FC, I went with the 2.54 JST since I had a bunch of those lying around.
Others:
- 2x Häagen-Dazs ice cream sticks (other popsicle sticks may work, if the ends are wider than 10mm)
- Elastic Bands
- Bits of paper etc to stick under the FC to make it level with the frame, if needed
Build Process
The trickiest part of the build, for someone not familiar with woodworking is getting the right sized hole on the arms. At first I was ambitious and wanted to drill an enclosed hole, but quickly found out that it is very difficult to do so with a regular power drill. It turns out for delicate wood like this the best way to cut through is either with a small knife, or a really high RPM grinding tool (e.g. Dremel, etc) with the right attachment. Also in the end I found out that it's OK for the outside to be open as the grommet will still sit snugly in the opening, as follows:
The first thing I wired up was the FC to the radio. Since we're using PPM, we only need a single signal wire, as follows:
Then, we just have to connect up the motors to each channel. I soldered directly onto the FC, and the only thing you have to make sure is the right motor direction. For CleanFlight, the directions are:
So motors 1 and 4 are CW, while 2 and 3 are CCW. The Red+/Blue- wired motors are CW, while the White+/Black- are CCW, respectively. So we just have to solder each motor to the correct pins on the FC:
I skipped a few photos along the way, but here's what it looks like all hooked up:
The battery get strapped in underneath, using the same elastic that holds the FC in place. Not the most secure mount, but it works!
Here's the AUW of everything:
At almost 50 grams, it is interesting to see that there are many brushless builds these days that are around similar weight. Exciting times we live in! Anyway... how does it fly?
Turns out, not very well! After some discussion online, people have recommended me to move away from the triblade props that come with the eachine motors. While they are super quiet, there isn't a lot of power. I have some ladybird props on the way which should make a difference. Stay tuned!
Other Potential Changes
I haven't decided if I should switch everything to losi since they're much easier to plug/unplug compared to JST. On the other hand I have 5 batteries with JST already and it would take quite a bit of soldering to change them...
Finally, a family pic with a WlToys V222 (showing its age compared to modern toy quad options, but still a great intro to quadcopters), and the perpetually in-progress QAV250:
Bonus Peek:
Here's the next version, with larger and more powerful props (hubsan x4 shown, but also have ladyprops which feel even better), as well as an AIO video tx:
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